Full-fashioned knitted garment and method



March 5, 1957 H. 'l'. SUMNER FULL-FASHIONED KNITTED GARMENT AND METHOD Filed June 14, 1954 6 Sheets-Sheet l INVENTOR: HAROLD T SUMNEQ.

ATTORNEYS March 5, 1957 HT. SUMNER FULL-FASHIONED KNITTED GARMENT AND METHOD Filed June 14, 1954 6 Sheets-Sheet 2 HAEOLDT. SUMNER,

mum-- mm m lmuumn mum". uumummmmm Ill hm "n IN VENTOR ATTORNEYS [f g W March 5, 1957 March 5, 1957 H.1I SUMNER 2,783,631 7 FULL-FASHIONED KNITTED GARMENT AND METHOD Filed June 14:, 1954 6 Sheets-Sheet 4 ATTORNEYS March 5, 1957 H. 'r. SUMNER 2,783,631

FULL-FASHIONED KNITTED GARMENT AND METHOD Filed June 14, 1954 6 Sheets-Sheet- 5 HAROLD T. SUM NPR,

INVENTOR ATTORNEYS) March 5, 1957 H. T SUMNER 2,783,531

FULL-FASHIONED KNITTED GARMENT AND METHOD Filed June 14, 1954 e sheets-sheets H H I HIM! H 1 52 l. H... .w'

ATTORNEYS United States Patent HE L-FASHIONED :KNITTED .GARMENII AND METHOD Harold T. Sumner, Gastonia, 'N. =C.,=assignor to Sumner l Hosiery Mill, :Gastonia, N. C., a.;partnership Application June 14, .1954, Serial.fNo.A3.6,;368

24 Claims. (Cl. 66- 177) invention relates to fulhfashioned .knittedartic'les and method of producing same on full-fashionedor ,flat bed machines, and moreespeciallytoa-method of ,producing a full-fashioned skirt, half-slip, petticoat and the like.

It is an object: of this invention to provide a method of producing a knitted half-slip which comprisesknitting a pluralityvof panels :or blanks on fullefashionedkni-tting machines and yaryingthe width of said panelsor blanks during knitting to fashion :the same and :then securing the sel-vages of said panels or blanks together to form a generally tubulargarment.

.It-is another object of thisinvention to. provide a skirtlike garment comprising a pluralityof panels each of which is knitted and fashioned on a full-fashioned knitting machine. The panels are secured to each other to term a tube which is fashioned so as -.to progressivelynarrow from the-bottom tot-he top, resulting in agarment-having the best possible fit.

It is another object of this invention :to .prov-ideaskirtlike garment and method of producing same which-reducesthe waste and labor heretofore required in making garments wherein it hasbeen necessary tocnt material and sew ittogether to-form a garment oiithis type. Heretofore, it has been necessary to cut a pluralityof panels from large sheets of knitted material and these panels were then hemmed andgsewn togetheryafterwhich itwas necessary to attach a waistband and skirtband.

In order for the finished garment to handproperly it was necessary to cut such material on :the bias, which made the cutting operation more diflieult :andresulted in a great deal of fabric waste. Also, the labor. involved in :cutting and sewing panels of this :type has been :expensive.

According to the present invention, :the .skirt-like gar ment is formed from a pluralityoi knittedpanels inthe form of knitted blanks, each TOf which is knitted gas .a separate piece of fabric material having selvages which will not ravel and which are easily securedto .the selvages of other panels as by seaming, which provides .a heater and smaller joint than-hemming and sewing. By fashion ing each of the panels during the knitting thereof :the curvature and shape of theresulting garment'may be-determined without the necessity of cutting :fabric.

It is another object of this invention to provide a garment of the type described comprising 'a plurality of fullfashioned panels wherein two or more yarns are used in knitting the blank, and said yarns being twisted in opposite directions. The oppositely twisted yarns are knitted into alternate courses, or every twocourses or'moreas may be desired, and this results .in fabric 'that will hang straight and not have a tendency to twist or skew outof shap It is another object of this invention to. provide a garment of the type described made of a plurality of fullashion d panels wher in the low r dge oteach Panel is turned in the knitting operation and connected to the body Sometof the objects of the-invention; having been tated,

:other'ohjects will .appear .as the description proceeds,

when taken in :connection with .the accompanying drawings, .in which- :Figure .-1 is I aplan -.view rof saikin'tted blank comprising onenof the panels (for the skirt-likeggarment, showing .the welt of hem .portion -.-thereof partially unfolded;

Figure 2 is an enlargediragmentary-tviewiof :the dotted .-line .-area Lin Figure 21 showing particularly :thealin'e of picot -stitches rtatatheafoldtline "of-the hem =or :welt;

.iEigure 3 -.is ianisometric :view 40f a completed :garment .tormed in acoordance'with this invention, showing the :same as -\wor-n and indicating a wearer in :broken .lines;

Figure 4 is an enlarged sectional :plan view taken alon'g 'therzltlne "44i in iFigu-rei 3,;

5 is atplan view of a mndi'fiedtorm of tarknitte'd blankfomningaone ofithmpanelsrof agarment and showin-g-Jth'e melt or hem Jill unturned zposition;

Figure 6 isean :enlahged'fragmentary view of'thedotted line: area tin tl-Fignre :5.

Figure v 7 isa view .similar to :Figure :3 but showing 'a garmentsmadetnp :of arpluralit-y -of blanks such as shown in Figureffi;

:liigure is 'an enlarged sver-ti'cal sectional vi'ewtaken along-Incline ii-+8 rind-figure 27.;

Figure 9 is an enlarged vertical sectional View taken along*the .liner-9-+9:in :Figure 8;

Figure :lBzis. a iplHIPVlBW :of another modified form of knitted blank comprisingmne "of the panels for a skirtlike garment, rbeing lsim'il'ar to Figure l but wherein the blank is iashi'oned by widening instead "of narrowing;

=1 l .is uan isometric view similar'ito Figure 3 but show'ingzmgarment made npmf a plurality of blanks such HSiSlIOWZHIlH rFi-gure' :10; v

' Figin'e 21.2 ais 'ansenlarged tfragmentary vertical sectional view :taken substantially albngrline IL-12in Figure 11.

Referringmiore specifically to Ythe drawings, there will be .observed :in Figure :1 a knitted blank 10 which is knitted ion a dull-fashioned 'or flat bell knitting machine and comprises one of a :plurality ofipanels used in forming :a skirt-like :garment in accordance with this invention. As is well knownin the full-fashioned knitting art,

. a full-fashioned knitting machine has a plurality of yarn carriers, not shown, which are reciprocated one or more at a time as 'desiredt-o feed oneor moreyarns to a plurality of knitting needles, not shown, to cause the yarn or yarnsto 'be knitted into a plurality of courses to form an elongated I blank or fabric.

By actuating the yarn fee d carriers as desired and by using one or more "of the yarn feed carriers the width of the garment may be varied from time to time and if desired additional 'or reinforcing yarn may beintroduced in various areas of the garment as desired. It is also known in the full-fashioned hosiery art to knit a portion of -the' blank and to then turn or fold this portion by means of a conventional 'welt turner'or the like so as to form a hem at'the beginning endof theblank, which hem is generally known as a welt :in the hosiery art.

In Jmaking the skirt-like garment in accordance with this invention arplurality of elongated blanks are knitted on .a full-fashioned knitting :machine, and these blanks are narrowed from time to time in order to fashion the same and to vary the width thereof and a welt or hem is formed atone end of the blank which makes up the hem in the completed garment.

The manner v.of narrowing may .be varied as desired in a particular garment and in some vcases .it may be desired to widen as well .as narrow in order to fashion a particular p e1 l By way of illustration, panel is shown as comprismg a blank which is four hundred seventy-six wales in width at the beginning thereof and wherein a welt portion 11 is formed of the full four hundred seventy-six walewidth. The welt 11 is a double welt having one hundred ninety-eight courses in each ply and is divided by a row of transverse picot stitches 12 which provides a fold line to permit the welt 11 to be folded transversely along line 12 so as to cause it to lie smooth and flat. The welt 11 is attached to the body of the fabric as at 13 in a manner conventional in the full-fashioned hosiery art by the use of a welt turner or the like, such as illustrated in Patents 2,101,048 and 2,183,575, the welt can be turned manually by manipulating the old style welt bar.

After the welt has been knitted and turned to form a welt or hem the body portion of the panel 10 is knitted from bottom to top in Figure I. As illustrated the blank is narrowed preferably one needle or Wale on each side as at 19 every one hundred and fifty courses for a total of six hundred courses. 1

After the narrowings 19, the blank 10 is additionally narrowed twice as at 20, fifty courses apart. Then the blank 10 is narrowed more rapidly by narrowing once every twenty-five courses as at 21 for a plurality of twenty-two comprising five hundred and fifty courses and is then narrowed every fifteen courses as at 22 for a total of ten narrowings and one hundred and fifty courses.

The upper portion of the blank is then additionally narrowed every five courses as at 23 for a plurality of six narrowings. The number and spacing of the narrowings 19 to 23 may vary as desired in fashioning a particular blank. 1

After the narrowings 23, three courses of picot stitches 25 are knitted and then a small plurality of additional courses (in this instance six courses) are formed as at 26 and the blank is pressed off ofthe needles. The number of picot courses 25 may vary and these courses serve as an anti-ravel device for stopping any raveling which might occur in the courses 26. The courses 25 define the upper edge of the blank and the additional fabric 26 is either turned under when the waistband is attached thereto or is cut and trimmed from the panel as may be desired.

Referring to Figure 2, it will be observed that in the preferred form of the invention two different yarns are used in making the panel 10, oneyarn being aloft-twist or Z twist yarn and the other being a right-twist or S twist yarn and these yarns are knit into alternate courses or alternate groups of courses so that the latent twist properties in the yarns will balance each other and result in a fabric which will hand vertically straight without skewing or curving. As illustrated in Figure 2, righttwist yarns R are knitted to form two courses, and then left-twist yarns L are knitted to form two additional courses. and these yarns are knitted alternatively throughout the body of the panel 10 as above noted. If desired, the yarns L and R may be alternated every course or every three courses or in any desired grouping arrangement, but groups of two courses are preferred.

Referring to Figure 3, there will be observed a garment broadly indicated at 30 made up of four panels like the panel 10 and indicated at 10, 10a, 10b, and 100. The selvages of each of the panels are secured to the selvages of next adjacent panel by seaming as indicated in Fig- 'ure 4. Due to the fact that the panel selvages are nonraveling, it is not necessary to sew the same together with extra fabric material overlapping the seam and forming a flap or hem on the inside of the garment but the edges may be seamed together by suitable threads such as indicated at 31 in Figure 4 in a manner similar to the manner in which the selvages of a full-fashioned stocking blank are seamed together. This makes a small seam which gives a much better appearance and hangs better than the seam or hems heretofore used in garments of this type and results in a fabric saving.

10 forms a hem around the lower periphery of the completed garment 30. A suitable waistband 32 is secured to the upper edges of the panels 10 and this waistband 32 preferably has elastic strands 33 therein and may be secured to the upper edges of the panels 10 in any desired manner as by sewing or by seaming the lower edge thereof to the upper edges of the panels 10, 10a, 10b and 100. As heretofore stated, the excess fabric comprising the courses 26 and the picot lines 25 may be taken up in the seeming or sewing operation or may be cut prior to or during the sewing or seaming of the band 32 to the upper portion of the garment. Any suitable type of waistband may be used and may be secured to the garment in any suitable fashion the elastic waistband 32 being shown by way of illustration only. a

If desired, additional yarns may be knitted into the blank 10 at any desired points for purposes of reinforcing the blank or for ornamental purposes. For example, a heavier yarn or an additional reinforcing yarn may be used in the welt or hem area 11 to lend body to the garment. Also, lines of picot stitches may be insented at various places in the garment for ornamental appearances if so desired.

Referring now'to Figures 58, inclusive, there will be observed a modified form of the garment wherein a plurality of picot stitches are formed in the welt or hem area, which stitches result in an uneven, lace-like ruffled fabric border in the completed garment.

A fabric blank indicated at 10 is knitted in a manner similar to that previously described for the blank 10 and the blank 10 has a welt or hem area 11 and the body portion thereof is narrowed progressively as at 19' to 23', inclusive, as may be described, to fashion the panel in the manner previously described.

In this form of invention, the line of picot stitches 12 is omitted and in lieu thereof a plurality of lines of picot or lace-like loops or stitches 40 are longitudinally spaced at the center portion of the welt or hem area 11' and these lines extend transversely of panel 10'. As will be observed more specifically in Figure 6, each of the lines 40 comprises several courses of picot stitches, in this instance eight courses, separated by several courses of regular stitches, in this instance nine. 1

After the welt or hem 11' has been knitted with a plurality of picot lines 40 therein the welt is folded and turned along a line extending transversely of the blank intermediate the picot lines 40 so that the lines of picot or lace-like stitches 40, extend along the bottom edge of the panel on both the inner and outer surfaces. When the welt or hem portion 11' is turned, the end of the welt is tied back into the fabric as at 13 forming a double ply welt or hem along the bottom edge of the panel. In subsequent finishing operationsv the lace-like stitches 40 remain loose and lacy and do not lie flat so that a ruflled appearance is present in the lower edge of the panel.

If desired, additional lines of picot or lace-like stitches 41 may be placed in the body of the panel 10 adjacent the welt 11' or in any other area desired for the purposes of ornamentation. In Figure 7, the lace area 41 is illustrated as being somewhat wider than shown in Figure 5.

Referring to Figure 7, there will be observed a half slip or skirt-like garment 30 made up of a plurality of panels identical to the panel 10' and for purposes of illustration being indicated at 10', 10a, 10b, and Ida. These panels are secured together at their selvages by seaming so as to give a small, neat line of juncture, and a suitable waistband 32 is secured to the upper edges of the panels making up the skirt. The waistband 32- may be seamed or sewed to the upper edge of the panel and as will be observed more readily in Figure 8, by way of example, the waistband 32 having elastic strands 33' therein is attached to the upper edge of the panels by stitches 42 penetrating the proximate edges of the panels and the waistband and forming a seam at the juncture- If preferred, the waistband may be secured by sewing or any desired manner. For example, an additional welt could be formed at the upper portion of the skirt and a loose band of elastic inserted in this welt or hem.

The loose, lace-like rufiied appearance at the lower edge of the garment is more clearly observed in Figures 7 and 9, it being noted that the upper portion of the hem or welt 11 lies flat, after finishing, but the area made up of the lace-like or picot stitches 40 retains a ruffled, uneven appearance which presents a pleasing appearance.

After the garments have been completed by securing a plurality of panels together as indicated, they may be finished in any desired fashion in a manner similar to the finishing processes in the full-fashioned hosiery art. For example, the garments may be pre-boarded on a form and treated by heat and steam to preset and preshrink the yarn in the fabric to cause desired loop characteristics to be maintained. After the pre-boarding operation the garment may be dyed in any conventional manner and then put through a final boarding operation and again treated to heat and/or steam for additionally setting the loop formation of the yarns. The pre-boarding and final boarding does not affect the lacy-like or ruflied appearance of the picot stitches 40. Any suitable softeners or finishers may be used. The blanks can also be pre-set before being seamed together.

Referring now to Figures 10, 11 and 12, there will be observed still another form of blank and the garment formed therefrom wherein the knitted blank shown in Figure is indicated at 10". The blank 10" is also knitted on a full-fashioned or flat bed knitting machine and may be of substantially the same shape as the blank 10 shown in Figure 1. The primary difference between the blanks 10 and 10" lies in the fact that the blank 10 is knitted from bottom to top or from its wide end to its narrow end in Figure 1 while the blank 10" in Figure 10 is knitted from top to bottom or from its narrow end to its wide end. It follows, therefore, that the blank 10" is fashioned by widening whereas the blank 10 is fashioned by narrowing.

By way of example, a relatively narrow welt portion 56 is formed as a double welt which is divided by a row of transverse picot stitches 51 which provides a fold line to permit the welt S0 to be folded upon itself and then interknitted with the body of the fabric as at 52 in a conventional manner and wherein a welt turner or the like, such as illustrated in said Patents 2,101,048 and 2,183,575, may be used.

After the welt 50 has been knitted and turned to form a channel or hem, the body portion of the blank 10" is knitted from top to bottom in Figure 10 wherein it is widened in successive courses and wherein the number of courses between successive widenings vary in substantially the proportions defined in the description given with respect to Figure 1, the areas corresponding to areas 23, 22, 21, and 19 in Figure 1 being indicated at 54, 55, 56, 57 and 58 in Figure 10. Accordingly, a detailed description of the number of courses and the number of widenings in the areas 54-58 is deemed unnecessary.

After the desired length of fabric has been knitted to form the blank 10" in the manner described, a few courses of picot stitches 61 are knitted and then a relatively small plurality of additional courses is formed as at 62 whereupon the blank is pressed off of the needles. The number of picot courses 61 may vary and these courses merely serve as an anti-ravel device for stopping any raveling which might occur in the courses 62. The courses 61 define the lower edge of the blank 10" and the additional fabric 62 is either turned under when a wide hem is attached thereto or it may be cut and trimmed from the panel as may be desired. The panel may be constructed substantially as described with respect to Figure 2.

The form of garment made up of panels like panel 10" and shown in Figure 11 is broadly designated at 65, the

panels in Figure 11 being indicated at 10,1041", 10b and These panels may be assembled in the same manner as that described with respect to the form of invention shown in Figure 3 with the exception that the inturned portion of the welt 50 is not' seamed or stitched together at the juncture of at least one adjacent pair of panels to provide an opening for the insertion of an elastic band 67. This band 67, after being inserted in the channel formed by the turned welt 50 may be suitably stitched together at opposite ends thereof to form the waistband of the garment. The waistband 67 is shown by way of example only, since there are various other Ways in which an elastic waistband can be formed in the upper end of the garment.

After the panels have been assembled or stitched together, a suitable ornamental hem strip 70 may be attached to the fabric 62, at either its lower or upper edge, as desired and, of course, if the lower edge of the hem strip 70 is attached to the fabric 62, then its upper edge would be stitched to the portions of the blanks 10"--10c" along a line spaced above the row of picot stitches 61.

It is thus seen that we have provided a skirt-like garment and method for making the same which comprises knitting a plurality of individually elongated blanks of fabric material while varying the width of said blanks during the knitting process so as to fashion the same and securing the proximate longitudinal edges of said blanks together to form a skirt-like garment such as a ladys underslip or half-slip.

In the drawings and specification there has been set forth a preferred embodiment of the invention and although specific terms are employed, they are used in a generic and descriptive sense only, and not for purposes of limitation, the scope of the invention being defined in the claims.

I claim:

1. That method of making a skirt-like garment having front, rear and side sections which comprises plain knitting an individual full-fashioned elongated fabric blank for each section, varying the width of said blanks during the knitting thereof, and then securing the longitudinal edges of said fabric blanks together to form a generally tubular garment.

2. A garment formed in accordance with the method of claim 1.

3. That method of making a skirt-like garment from a plurality of individual fabric blanks of elongated fabric each having a body portion and a welt portion, which comprises knitting a first plurality of courses for each blank to form the welt portion, then turning the welt portion and connecting its ends, then knitting an additional plurality of courses to form the body portion, varying the width of said blanks during the knitting thereof, and then securing the longitudinal edges of said fabric blanks together to form a tubular garment.

4. A garment formed in accordance with the method of claim 3.

5. That method of making a skirt-like garment having front, rear and side sections which comprises plain knitting an individual full-fashioned, selvaged, elongated fabric blank for each section, varying the Width of said blanks during the knitting thereof, and then seaming the selvages of said fabric blanks together to form a tubular garment.

6. A garment formed in accordance with method of claim 5.

7. That method of making a full-fashioned skirt-like garment having front, rear and side sections which comprises plain knitting an individual full-fashioned, selvaged, elongated fabric blank for each section, varying the width of said blanks during the knitting thereof then seaming the proximate selvages of said fabric blanks together to form a tubular garment, and attaching a waist band to the upper edges of said blanks.

8. A full-fashioned garment formed .in accordance with the method of claim 7.

9. That method of making a full-fashioned skirt-like garment having front, rear and side sections which comprises plain knitting an individual full-fashioned elongated panel for each section from at least two oppositely twisted yarns wherein alternate groups of courses are knitted with at least one of said yarns twisted in one direction and the other courses are knitted with at least one yarn twisted in a direction opposite to said first yarn, varying the width of each of said panels during the knitting thereof to fashion the same, and then securing the proximate longitudinal edges of said panels together. i

10. A full-fashioned garment made in accordance with the method of claim 9.

11. That method of making a full-fashioned skirt-like garment having front, rear and side sections which comprises knitting an individual full-fashioned elongated panel for each section from at least two oppositely twisted yarns wherein some courses are knitted with at least one of said yarns twisted in one direction and the other courses are knitted with at least one yarn twisted in a direction opposite to said first yarn, varying the width of each of said panels during the knitting thereof to fashion the same, and then securing the proximate longitudinal edges of said panels together.

12. A full-fashioned garment made in accordance with the method of claim 11.

13. That method of making a full-fashioned skirt-like garment having front, rear and side sections which comprises knitting an individual full-fashioned, selvaged, elongated panel for each section by knitting alternate groups of courses in each panel from yarns twisted in opposite directions, varying the width of each of said panels during the knitting thereof to fashion the same, and then-seaming the proximate selvages of said panels together.

14. A full-fashioned garment made in accordance with the method of claim 13.

15. That method of making a full-fashioned skirt-like garment of a plurality of interconnected independently knitted full-fashioned panels each having a body portion and a welt portion, which comprises knitting a first plurality of courses for each panel to form the welt portion, turning the welt portion and connecting its ends, then knitting an additional plurality of courses to form the body portion, fashioning the body portion by narrowing the same at points on each side during the knitting thereof, knitting at least one course of anti-ravel stitches adjacent the end of the body portion, and then securing the proximate selvages of a plurality of such panels together with the welt portions thereof in alinement.

16. A garment made in accordance with the method of claim 15.

17. That method of making a full-fashioned skirt-like garment of a plurality ofinterconneeted independently knitted full-fashioned panels each having a body portion and a welt portion, which comprises forming each panel by knitting a first plurality of courses to form a portion of the welt portion, then knitting at least one course of lace-like stitches and then knitting an additional plurality of courses to form the rest of the welt portion, folding the welt portion along said course of lace-like stitches and connecting its ends, then knitting an additional plura'lity of courses to form the body portion, fashioning 19. That method of making a full-fashioned skirt-like garment of a plurality of interconnected independently knitted full-fashioned panels, each having a body portion and a weltportion, which comprises forming each panel by knitting a first plurality of courses to form a portion of the belt portion, then knitting a plurality of groups of courses of lace stitches, then knitting an additional plurality of courses to form the rest of the welt portion, folding the welt portion along a line intermediate the groups of lace stitches and connecting its ends, then knitting an additional plurality of courses to form the body portion and fashioning the body portion by narrowing the same at points on each side during the knitting thereof, then knitting at least one course of anti-ravel stitches adjacent the end of the body portion, and securing the proximate selvages of such panels together to form a tubular garment with the lace stitches forming a ruffle along the loweredge thereof.

20. A full-fashioned garment made in accordance with the method of claim 19.

21. That method of making a full-fashioned skirt-like garment of a plurality of interconnected independently knitted full-fashioned panels, each having a body portion and a welt portion, which comprises forming each of said panels by knitting a first plurality of courses to form a portion of the welt portion, then knitting a plurality of courses of lace stitches, then knitting a plurality of additional courses to form the rest of the welt portion, folding the welt portion intermediate the lace stitches and connecting its ends, then knitting an additional plurality of courses to form the body portion and knitting at least some portions of the panels with yarns twisted in opposite directions wherein at least one course is knitted with a yarn knitted in one direction and other courses are knitted with yarns twisted in the opposite direction, fashioning the body portion by varying the width thereof during the knitting process, then knitting at least one course of anti-ravel stitches adjacent the end of the body portion, and securing the proximate selvages of such panels together to form a tubular garment with the lace stitches adjacent the lower edge thereof.

22. A full-fashioned garment made in accordance with the method of claim 21.

23. That method of making a skirt-like garment which comprises knitting a plurality of individual fabric blanks of elongated fabric from a Z-twist yarn and an S-twist yarn disposed in alternating courses by knitting a first plurality of courses to form a welt, turning the welt and connectnig its ends, then knitting an additional plurality of courses to form a body portion, and securing the elongated edges of a plurality of such blanks together with the welts in alinement.

24. A garment formed in accordance with the method of claim 23.

References Cited in the file of this patent UNITED STATES PATENTS 508,429 Lewis et al Nov. 14, 1893 648,581 Benger May 1, 1900 670,880 Jackson Mar. 26, 1901 2,038,318 Sanders Apr. 21, 1936 2,076,748 Schweig Apr. 13, 1937 2,124,508 McNamee July 19, 1938 FOREIGN PATENTS 517,717 Great Britain Feb. 7, 1940 

